This is also where you come across smorgSsar, open sandwiches piled high with an elaborate variety of toppings. Favourites include shrimps, smoked salmon, eggs, cheese, pate and mixed salad again, around 2025kr a tirne. For the cheapest eating, it's hard to beat the Mpemiarkets and markets. Buy the heavier black bread rather than the fluffy cheaper white it's much more filling. A tube of kavlar, oe from cod roe. Is a sort of concentrated ywuMnd Island spread and good for crispbread jjicb, Itself, is the cheapest thing to buy), ything tinned is very expensive apart from и"еге1 and mussels. Yoghurt and milk are good value, and bananas, apples and oranges the cheapest fruits. For those actually cooking, pasta, rice, tinned tomatoes, onions, peppers (capsicums) and tinned mushrooms provide filling cheap meals; but tea, coffee and anything frozen or packeted will be twice the British price. Stores to watch for are Ahlens and Domus, national chains with big food halls, weighyourown fruit and veg, and "pick and mix" salad bars. Restaurants: lunch and dinner Eating in a restaurant [restaurang] needn't be out of your price range as long as the meal you eat is lunch. Most restaurants offer something called the Dagens Ratt (daily dish) at around 5060kr, often the only affordable way to sample real Swedish Husmanskost "home cooking". Served between 1 lam and 2pm, this is simply a choice of main meal (usually one meat, one fish dish) which comes with bread and salad, sometimes a soft drink or light beer, and usually coffee. Some Swedish dishes, like pytt i panna and kOttbullar (see the food glossary box, overleaf), are standards. On the whole, though, more likely offerings in the big cities are pizzas, basic Chinese meals and meat or fish salads. Other cheapish places for lunch are cafeterias, usually self service with cheaper snacks and hot meals, which won't be of a thrilling quality but at least will fill you up: large department stores and train stations are good places to look. If you're travelling with kids, look out for the word Barnmatsedal (children's menu). More expensive, but good for a blowout, are restaurants and hotels that put out the Smorgasbord at lunchtime for around 100 150kr. Following the breakfast theme, you help yourself to unlimited portions of herring, hot and cold meats, eggs, fried and boiled potatoes, salad, cheese, desserts and fruit. To fallow local custom you should start with aquavit, drink beer throughout and finish with coffee; but this will add to the bill unless it is a fancier and dearer inclusive spread (usually found on Sunday). A variation on the buffet theme is the Sillbricka, a specialist buffet where the dishes are all based on cured and marinaded herring it might simply be called the "herring table" on the menu. This, too, is excellent and runs to about the same price as the SmorgSsbord, it's often found in country inns and restaurants.