Joe Hill, bom in the house as Joel Hagglund in 1879, emigrated to the United States in 1902, Americanised his name and became a workingclass hero his songs and speeches became rallying cries to comrades in the International Workers of the World; but, framed for murder in Salt Lake City, he was executed in 1915. ТЪе syndicalist organisation to which he belonged runs the museum, a collection of standard memorabilia pictures and belongings given piquancy by the telegram announcing his execution and his last testament. The heart of Gamla Gefle is bounded at one end by the youth hostel (see below) and at the other by the canalised river that runs through the centre of town. On the canal side at Sodra Strandgatan 20 is the Lansmuseet (Tues, Thurs & Fri 10am4pm, Wed 10am9pm, Sat & Sun l5pm; free), a thoughtful county museum thafs a cut above the usual fare. Displays concentrate on the role of the ironworks and fisheries in the locality, and the upper two floors contain art collections, notably the work of local hero JohanErik Olson (popularly known as "lira Johan"), whose vivid imagination and nmve technique produced some strange, childlike paintings. The rest of the city The modem centre lies over the river, its broad streets and treelined venu» designed to prevent fires from spreading. From the sculpturespiked to the theatre, a central slice of parks, trees and fountains neatly splits the aty the main banks, shops and stores are in the grid of streets on tithe central avenue, while the roomy Stortoiget, sporting a phallic monolith, пй usual openafr market (MonSat from 9am), worth patronising for fruit Gavle's other sights none of them major are out of the centre enough to reach on foot Back at the river by the main double bridge, Slottet, the seventeenthcentury residence of the county son ramparts and towers years ago and now lurks behind a row of trees minor country house. If s not possible to get inside for a poke ' л on with an appointment you can visit the Fangehnuseet (Prison Museum; premises; speak to the tourist office if this appeals. GAVLESi ' CENTRAL GAVLE \ •««''''A» < . T » «Ам\ A ' p: 'ЧерГе %'.'4 Yowh Hel Near here, a footpath along the river front leads to a wooden bridge, across which is Kaplansgatan and the Heliga Trefaldighets Ika, a seventeenth century church that's a masteфiece of wood4;arved decoration. Check out the №lpit, towering altarpiece and screen each the superb and exact work of a craftsman, Ewert Friis. to the path on the south side of the river and a fifteenminute signposted foTMW Silvanum CTuesSun 10am4pm; free) at Kungsbacksvagen 32, a mu™"®™ of the rambling Boulognersk(«en park. The away ад k® ®® interesting as it sounds, but the park is the place to while air caf6 narked paths, music pavilions, minigolf and open niuseum in town is the Jamvagsmuseet OuneAug daily card) at TuesSun l4pm; 20kr, famiUes 40kr, free with InterRail Kuntan 1, a #6 bus ride from outside the Ridhus on Norra ParaphemaUa.