Sweden 45

Happily, though, the commercialism is largely unobtrusive, and in summer buskers and evening strollers clog the narrow ways, making it an entertaining area to wander and to eat and drink. There are few real targets, though at some stage you'll probably pass the copy of the George and Dragon statue in Kopmantorget (off Osterianggatan). Take every opportunity, too, to scuttle up side streets, where you'll find fading coats of arms, covered alleyways and worn cobbles at every turn. Just off Vasterlanggatan, on Tyska Brinken, the Tyska Igrkan, or German Church (Sat & Sun noon4pm) once belonged to Stockholm's medieval German merchants, serving as the meeting place of the Guild of St Gertrude. A copper '