Other than this convenience, the reason for being here is an eclectic clutch of museums, the nearest to the hostels being the Modema Museet (TuesThurs llampm, FriSun llam6pm; 40kr, students 20kr, under16s free, free on Thurs), one of the better modern art museums in Europe. The roomy, welldesigned layout alone is encouraging, while the collection is suфris ingly comprehensive, representing many of the twentieth century's greatest artists. Dali's monumental Enigma of William Tell shows the artist at his most conventionally unconventional, and Matisse's Apollo (1953) also stands eut. Look too for Picasso's Guitar Player and a whole stream of Warhol, Lichtenstein, Man Ray and Francis Bacon. It's a pleasing place to idle away time, with outdoor tables and jazz or rock concerts in the summer, a decent cafe inside and temporary exhi bitions held all year. A steep climb up the nearby hill, to the northern tip of the island, brings you to the Ostasiatiska Museet, the Museum of Far Eastern Antiquities (Tues 11am 9pm, WedSun llam5pm; 30kr, students 15kr, free on Wed). The reward is an array of objects displaying incredible craftsmanship fifth4;entury Chinese tomb figures, delicate jade amulets, an awesome assembly of sixth4;entury Buddhas, Indian watercolours and gleaming bronze Krishna figures. But it seems redundant to mention a few particular favourites when one roomful of treasures leads unfailingly into another half a day well spent. Other than this, there's little to detain you on Skeppsholmen or on adjacen. microscopic Kastellholmen, connected by a bridge to the south. Both islands are in the Baltic, attractive enough to have induced the Swedish Navy to settle SKEPPSHOLMEN AND N 0 R M M A L M 1369 e in the nineteenth century, and some of the old barracks are still visible. If re taking a turn around tiie islands though, be aware of Skeppsholmen's th r diversion the Arkitektur Museet (Tues llam9pni, WedSun 11am ° . students 15kr), which stages temporary exhibitions on various aspects ofchitecture and urban planning within Sweden. It's small but rarely uninteresting. The National Art Museum On the way to Skeppsholmen as you approach the bridge, Skeppsholmbron, vouH pass the striking waterfront Nation Art Museum (JanJune & SeptDec TuesSun llam5pm, Tues & Thurs until 9pm; July & Aug TuesSun llam5pm, Tues until 9pm; 30kr, students 20kr), looking right out over the Royal Palace. The impressive collection is contained on three floors: the ound floor is taken up by changing exhibitions of prints and drawings and this is where you'll have to leave your bags (in the refundable lockers provided). There's a museum shop and a cafe here, too. The first floor is devoted to applied art and if it's curios you're after, this museum has the lot beds slept in by kings, cabinets leaned on by queens, plates eaten off by nobles mainly from the centuries when Sweden was a great power.