Its enormous Egyptian display covers just about every aspect of Egyptian life up to the Christian era. As well as several whopping great mummies, the most attractive pieces are the bronze weapons, tools and domestic objects from the time before the Pharaohs. The Cyprus collections are also huge, the largest such gathering outside Cyprus itself, depicting life through a period spanning 6000 years. Additionally the museum contains strong Greek displays and comprehensive collections of Etruscan and Roman art. A couple of rooms examine Islamic culture through pottery, glass and metal work, as well as decorative elements from architecture, Arabian calligraphy and Persian miniature painting. From Central Station east to Kungstradgirden Head up Vasagatan and it's only a few minutes to Central Station and the Cityterminalen, hub of virtually dl Stockholm's transport. Just when Stockholm threatens to get all modem and showy, though, ducking down Юarabergsgatan to the right reveals Шага lrka (MonEri 10am6pm, Sat 10am7pm, Sun 8.30am6pm), one of Stockholm's many hidden churches, with only the spires visible as you negotiate the surrounding streets. Hemmed in on all sides, the church is particularly delicate, with a light and flowery eighteenthcentury painted interior and an impressive golden pulpit. Out in the churchyard, a memorial stone commemorates the eighteenth4;entury Swedish poet Carl Michael Bellman, whose popular, lengthy ballads are said to have been composed extempore; his unmarked grave is somewhere in the churchyard. Head back down towards Gustav Adolfs Torg and the water, and Norrmalm's eastern boundary is marked by Kungstradgarden, most fashionable and central of the city's numerous parks. Once a royal kitchen garden, it's now Stockholm s main meeting place, especially in summer when there's almost always something going on: free evening gigs, live theatre, dance schools and cafes along with decorative guardsmen who march past the park on their way to the Royal Palace OuneAug MonSat at noon. Sun at 1pm). In the winter, the Isbanen, the open air ice rink at the top end, rents out skates (daily 9am4pm; skate rental 20kr) so that fiveyearold Swedish kids can humiliate inept icecrazed tourists. The п1Ш tourist office, Sverigehuset is here, too, at the comer with Hamngatan, while tn bottom, west side of the park holds Jakobs lka (daily llam5pm), another the city's overlooked churches. It's the pulpit again that draws the attention, a eat golden affair, while the date of the church 1642 is stamped high up on e ceiling in gold figures. There are weekly concerts here as well; organ and choir recitals on Saturday at 3pm. Nybroplan The water's edge square just to the east is Nybroplan, marked by the white stone, reliefstudded Kungliga Teatem, Stockholm's showpiece theatre. The curved harbour in fiont is the departure point for all kinds of archipelago ferries and tours. And in the middistance you can see the Nordiska and Vasa museums over on Djurgarden, also reached by ferries from Nybroplan.