Upstairs is his library, a musty room with all the books firmly behind glass, which is a shame because Strindberg was not a passive reader: he underlined heavily and criticised in the margins as he read, though rather less eruditely than you'd expect, "lies!", "Shit!", "Idiot!" and "Bloody Hell!" tended to be his favourite comments. Good English notes are supplied free, and the nearest Tbana stop is RAdmansgatan. Close by, set in secluded gardens between Drottninggatan and Sveagatan, sits Adolf Fredriks lka, which would have remained an almost unnoticed eight eenth4;entury church, its yard full of picnicking office workers, were it not for one of the most tragic and unexplained events in recent Swedish history. The church has a noteworthy past: its cemetery was the original burial place of the French philosopher Descartes, who died of pneumonia in Stockholm in 1650. His body went back to France in 1661, and a monument records his brief (mortal) stay. But the church is of far greater significance to modem Stockholmers still reeling from the assassination of their prime minister, Olof Palme, who is buried here. Shot on the way home from a nearby cinema, his death sent shock waves through a society unused to political extremism of any kind. Like most Scandinavian leaders his fame was his security, and he died unprotected, gunned down in front of his wife in February 1986. A politically instructive end, it has sadly led to a radical and negative rethink of the open government policy pursued in Sweden for decades. When Christer Pettersson was jailed for the murder (see "History", p.350), most Stockholmers thought that was the end of the story, but his eventual release after a successful appeal has only reopened the debate. There have been recriminations and resignations within a derided police force and although, in the past, the most popular suspects were immigrant Kurdish extremists and rightwing terror groups, now theories have even suggested the assassin came from within, or was hired by, the police force itself. Kungsholmen: the Stadshuset Take the Tbana back to the centre, get off at TCenfralen and it's only a matter of minutes from there, across the small Stadshusbron bridge, to the island of Kungsholmen. Here, the Stadshuset (guided tours MonFri 10am, Sat & Sun 10am & noon; tower MaySept daily 10am3pm; 30kr) is an obvious attraction and, to be honest, the only red reason to set foot on the island. Finished in 1923, it's one of the landmarks of modem Stockholm, its simple, if drab, exterior brickwork no preparation for the intriguing details inside. If you're a visiting Head of State you'll be escorted from your boat up the elegant waterside steps. If you re not, the only way to view the innards is on one of the guided tours, which reveal the kitschy Vikingstyle legislative chamber and the impressively echoing Golden Hall.