It's hardly worth venturing beyond the Stadshuset and further mW Kungsholmen, the relatively large island being a conglomeration of all the public buildings that had to go somewhere law courts, hospital, sports ground an police headquarters. But Stadshusbron is the departure point for a couple of tn city's best cruises, around Lake Malaren and under Stockholm's bridges; ticke from the kiosk (discounts with Stockholm Card). Ostermalm F of Birger Jarlsgatan the streets get noticeably broader, a uniform grid as far Karlaplan. Beyond, the eenery of Djurgarden begins to make itself felt, the oressive residences as likely to be consulates and embassies as fashionable houses Ostermalm was one of the last areas of central Stockholm to be devel TCd and the chief feature of this end of the city was once the barracks: it's a link cOTtinued today by the presence of the Armemuseum (TuesSun llam4pm; 15kr) at Riddargatan 13. Hardly anyone comes to visit its three floors, packed from top to bottom wi± precision killing machines, uniforms, swords and medals. Indeed, you'll probably be outnumbered by museum attendants, who seem to consider an interest in the exhibits as proof of social deviancy, and who stay keenly alert and omnipresent At the time of writing, the museum was undergoing renovation, so it's best to check with the tourist office first if you want to see it. Directly across Riddargatan is the innovative Musikmuseet (TuesSun 11am 4pm; 20kr, students lOkr) at Sibyllegatan 2, containing a range of instruments which visitors can play ("carefully", pleads the notice). The museum charts the history of music in Sweden using photographs, instruments and sound recordings. Best are the sections that deal with the late nineteenth century, a time when folk music had been given a fresh impetus by the growing labour movement The concluding parts on "progressive" and "disco" music are very brief and uninteresting, with the merest mention of punk and, astonishingly, nothing on ABBA. Just back from the museums, Ostermalmstorg has its own market hall, very similar to Norrmahn's Hotorgshallen: a tempting place for a wander if you're feeling peckish. The Historiska Museet If you're trailing around Ostermalm's gridded streets, you're bound to end up at circular Karlaplan sooner or later, if only because many of the city's buses go this way. If you do, jump on a bus (#44) heading for Djurgirden or walk the few hundred metres down Narvavagen as far as the important Historiska Museet CTuesSun noon5pm, Thurs until 8pm; 30kr, students 25kr, free on Thurs) at Narvavagen 1317, the most wideranging historical display in Stockholm. It's really two large collections, museums of National Antiquity and Monetaiy ft seems pertinent to mention Sweden's Fab Four here, who rocketed to international feme after winning the Eurovision Song Contest in 1974 with "Waterloo".