Their bodies were bumed as heretics outside the city walls and it proved a vicious and effective coup, Christian disposing of the opposition at one fell swoop. Sadly, the church was bumed out a couple of years ago, though there are long term plans to restore it to its eighteenthcentury glory. That's about as far as specific sights go in Sodermalm, although you might as well wander westwards towards Mariatorget, a spacious square where the influence of Art Nouveau on the buildings hasn't quite been eradicated. One of the finest examples, no. 1, now houses a Museum of Toys CTuesFri 10am4pm, Sat & Sun noon4pm; 25kr). Containing everything from tin soldiers to space guns, it's of rather more interest to big than little kids, there not being a lot you can actually play with. You might be staying in Sodermalm, or end up here at night since there are some good bars and restaurants in this quarter of the city. Gotgatan, particularly, has a broad choice of moderately cheap restaurants, some "pubs" (see "Drinking, Nightlife and Entertainment", p.382) and a few wellstocked bookshops. Lingholmen Whether you stop in Sodermalm or not, the buses and Tbana trains come this way for the island of Langholmen, just off its western side. There's a popular beach here, which gets packed in the summer, a chance to swim and plenty of shady walks through the island's trees. One of the better places to stay in the city is the youth hostel (see "Accommodation") sited in what used to be LSngholmen's large prison building. There's a cafe here in the summer, where you can sit outside and have a drink, worth doing since the tables and chairs take up space in the former exercise yard narrow, brickedup runs with iron gates a one end. You don't have to come through Sodermalm to reach Lingholmen, though you do, get off the Tbana at Homstull and follow the signs (or bus #54 ะพ Hogalidsgatan). In summer there's a more direct ferry from Stadshuset, whic drops you right by the hostel. More parks and gardens . Stockholm's sense of space and pleasant aspect, there isn't the same urge as some cities to head for a park and escape the bustle: even the most builtup parts "f Norrmalm and Sodermalm have a stack of quiet gardens and squares tucked "way if you search hard enough. If you're spending only a couple of days in the tv then youll probably visit Djuiden anyway, its excellent range of muums interspersed by rolling parkland, and one of them, Skansen, is openair itself' see above for more details. There are also a few other outdoor destinations worth seeking out, especially if you have children in tow, or if you're keen to see the less visited northern parts of Stockholm. Best place to take the kids is Vanadisbadet (midMay to midSept daily 10am 6pm; 40kr), a water sports and activity park in Vanadislunden, at Sveavagen 142; take the Tbana to Odenplan.