There's an exhibition, old rolling stock and workshops, but it's a collection giwn added interest by the fact that the steam trains still run to and from Mariefred; details below, under "Practicalities''. Gripsholm Castle Lovely though the village is, touring around it is really only a preface to Gripsholm (NovFeb Sat & Sun noon3pm; March, April, Sept & Oct Tues" 10am3pm, Sat & Sun noon3pm; MayAug daily 10am4pm; 30kr), the im;» ing redbrick castle built on a round island just to the south: walk up the quaysi and youH be able to see the path there running across the fields. MARIEFRED, G R I P S Н О L М AND E S К I L T U N A 3 Э ] the late fourteenth century. Bo Johnsson Grip, the Swedish High гь cellor, began to build a fortified castle at Mariefred, although the present ь Ы пе owes more to two Gustavs Gustav Vasa, who started rebuilding in the M enth century, and Gustav III, who was responsible for major restructuring a le of centuries later. Rather than the hybrid that might be expected, the ''""It is rather pleasing a textbook castle, whose turrets, great halls, corridors "battlements provide an engaging tour. The guide will point out most of the nortant bits and pieces as you go: there's a vast portrait collection, which eludes recently commissioned works of political and cultural figures as well as '"sorted royalty and nobility; some fine decorative and architectural work; and Drottningholm, a private theatre, built for Gustav III. It's too delicate to use for performances these days, but in summer plays and events take place out in the castle grounds; more information from the tourist office in Mariefred. Practicalities Mariefred warrants a night's stay, if not for the sights which you can exhaust in half a day then for the pretty and peaceful surroundings. There's only one hotel, the Gripsholm Vdrdshus, Kyrkogatan 1 (®0159130 20; (D), a wildly expensive mid luxurious option overlooking the water. Otherwise, ask in the tourist office about rooms in the village, or take the bus 15km northwest to nearby STRANGNAS, where there's a youth hostel («0152168 61; 90kr) that's open all year, though youll need to book in advance from September to June. The local campsite is also a good choice: Marie Camping («0159102 30; May to mid Sept) has a waterside location and offers cabins, too. The Gripsholm Vdrdshus may be a pricey place to stay, but this beautifully restored inn (the oldest in Sweden) is at least worth thinking about for lunch. The food is excellent and around 180kr will get you a turn at the herring table, a main course, drink and coffee all enhanced by the terrific views over to Gripsholm. Or there's the friendly Jakob's Bistro, opposite the castle. When it comes to leaving Mariefred, consider taking the narrow gauge steam train which leaves roughly hourly (30kr return; halfprice for kids and rail pass holders) between 10am and 5pm for LAGGESTA, a twentyminute ride away.