Sweden 72

The City Centre of the medieval town and a tenminute walk from the train station is the great Domlrkan (daily JuneAug 8am8pm; SeptMay Sampm). Scandinavia's largest cathedral. Built as a Gothic brag to the people of Trondheim that even their mighty church could be overshadowed, it loses out to its compefr tor by reason of the building material local brick rather than imported stone and only the echoing interior remains impressive, particularly the French ambulatory, sided by tiny chapels and bathed in a golden, decorative glow. On chapel contains a lively set of restored fourteenthcentury wall paintings w recount the legend of nt Erik, Sweden's patron saint: his coronation, to Finland, eventual defeat and execution at the hands of the Danes. The Erik are zealously guarded in a chapel off the nave: poke around and you find the tombs of Reformation rebel Gustav Vasa and his son Johan Ш. an" of Linnaeus, the botanist, who lived in Uppsala. Time and fire have led the rest of the cathedral to be rebuilt, scrubbed and painted to the extent that it resembles a historical museum more than a thirteenth4;entury spiritual centre; even the characteristic twin spires are late nineteenth4;entury additions. The rest of the buildings grouped around the Domkyrkan can all claim a cleaner historical pedigree. Opposite the towers, the oniondomed Gustavianum (daily July & Aug llam3pm; SeptJune noon3pm; 15kr) was built in 1625 as part of the university, and is much touted by the tourist board for its tidily preserved anatomical theatre. The same building houses a couple of small collections of Egyptian, Classical and Nordic antiquities, with a small charge for each serton Ouly & Aug daily llam3pm). The current University building is the imposing nineteenth4;entury iaissance edifice over the way. Originally a seminary, today it's used for res and seminars, and hosts the graduation ceremonies each May. The more ous of Its alumni include Cari von Unne (Linnaeus) and Anders Celsius, look the temperature scale. No one will mind if you stroll in for a quick an Ph (including the glorious Augsberg Art Cabinet, eny treasure chest presented to Gustav II Adolf) you need to ask in the office A- presen tour rti® "Sht of the main entrance (Vaktmasteri), or catch a guided AUw12.30pm & 2pm; 15kr). yond the university building is the CaroUna Rediviva (MonFri % Ub'n ®5.30pm; June to midSept also Sun l3.30pm), the univer On April 30 each year the students meet here to celebrate the first day of spring, all wearing the traditional student cap which gives them the appear ance of disaffected sailors. It's one of Scandinavia's largest libraries, with around four million books. Adopt a student pose and you can slip in for a wander round and a coffee in the common room. More officially, take a look in the manuscrint room, where there's a collection of rare letters and other paraphernalia.