Th beautiful sixth4;entury Silver Bible is on permanent display, as is, oddly, Mozart' original manuscript for The Magic Flute. After this, the castle (midApril to midJune & midAug to Sept MonSat llam3pm. Sun llam4pm; midJune to midAug MonFri 10am6pm, Sat & Sun 10am5pm; guided tours only; 15kr), up on the hill, is a disappointment. In 1702 a fire that destroyed threequarters of the city did away with much of the castle and only one side and two towers remain of what was once an opulent rectangular palace. But the facade still gives a weighty impression of what's missing, like a backless Hollywood set. Seeing Uppsala, at least the compact older parts, won't take up much time What does, if the weather holds out, is strolling alongside the river that runs through the centre. In the summer there are several resting places good for an hour or two, and enough greenery to make this stretch more than just pleasant One beautiful spot is the linnaeus Gardens (daily MayAug 9am9pm; Sept 9am7pm; fiee), over the river on Linnegatan. The university's first botanical gardens, they were relaid by Linnaeus in 1741, some of the species he introduced and classified still surviving. Practicalities Uppsala's train and bus stations are adjacent to each other, and it's not far to walk down to the tourist office QuneAug MonSat 10am6pm; «01811 75 GO) at Fyris Torg 8. There's a second information desk in the castle. Both places hand out an English guide to the tovra, which has a useful map inside. The boats for Skokloster and Stockholm arrive at and depart from the pier south of the centre, at the end of Baverns Grand. Bus #801 runs between Uppsala and Arlanda airport, so if you wish you can bypass Stockholm on your way in or out of Sweden; it leaves Uppsala bus station every fifteen to thirty minutes. Accommodation Though so close to Stockholm, staying over can be an attractive idea. There are two youth hostels: a YMCA InterRail Point (n01818 85 66; July to midAug S 11am & 5lOpm; 70kr), 2km from the centre at the comer of Svartbacksgatan and Torbjornsgatan (bus #7 from Stora Torget); and STFs beautifully sited Sunnersta Herrgard (01832 42 20; MayAug; 83kr), 6km south of Uppsala at Sunnerstavagen 24 (bus #20 fiom Nybron, by Stora Torget). There are a few cheapish hotels, too, right in the centre check with the tourist office for ше latest deals while for a more expensive, though thoroughly pleasant. nigW® stay, the Hotel Lime (01810 20 00; (D) more than halves its prices from roio June to the end of July: it's at Skolgatan 45, the rooms overlooking the Linnaeu gardens. For a night's unofficial camping, head the few kilometres north to the spaces of Gamla Uppsala (see below). Or there's a regular site with cabins available (w01832 41 33; MayAug) by Lake Malaren at GRANEBt 7km out (bus #20 from Nybron). Eating, drinking and nightlife Eating and entertainment are straightforward in this university town, easier still if yo" student ID.