For snacks and cheap coffee try the
Alma cafe in the basement of the university building. Across the square, the Cafe иЬЬо in the student union office is open all year from 9am to 3 or 4pm, and serves cheap set lunches. For vegetarian food, it's difficult to beat lunch at Barowiak, a large wooden house immediately below the castle off Nedre Slottsgatan: jazz while you eat and plenty of students around. A similar setup and equally popular is the Cafe Katalin on Svartbacksgatan. The summer brings a glut of openair cafes around the town, the most рориЦ on the river: Cafe Linne, just down the street from the linnaeus gardens, and Akanten, below St Erik's Torg, are among the best. Many stay open until the early hours, an unusual bonus.
At night most of the action is generated by the students in houses called "Nations", contained within the grid of streets behind the university, backing on to St Olofsgatan. Each a sort of college fraternity, they run dances, gigs and parties of all hues and, most importantly, boast very cheap bars. The official line is tiiat if you're not a Swedish student you won't get in to most of the things advertised around the town; in practice, being foreign and nice to the people on the door generally yields entiance and with an ISIC card it's even easier. As many stiidents stay around during the summer, functions are not stiictly limited to term time. A good choice to begin with is the Uplands Nation, off St Olofsgatan and Sysslomansgatan near the river, with a summer outdoor cafe open until Sam. Barowiak puts on live bands in the evenings, while the Cafe Katalin is open late, too, and has jazz nights. Club Dacke is a studentfrequented disco on St Olofsgatan, near the Domkyrkan, while one of the liveliest joints is Rackis, a music bar out near tiie student residences on St Johannesgatan (bus #1 to Student Staden) there's live music here nearly every night.
Gamla Uppsala
Five kilometres to the north of the present city three huge barrows, royal burial mounds dating back to the sixth century, mark the original site of Uppsala, Gamla Uppsala. This was a pagan settlement and a place of ancient sacrificial rites. Every nintii year tiie festival of Frdblot demanded the death of nine people, hged from a nearby tree until their corpses rotted. The pagan temple where tos bloody sacrifice took place is now marked by the Christian Gamla Uppsala lka (daily AprilAug 9.30am8pm; SeptMarch 9.30amdusk), built over PagM remains when the Swedish kings first took baptism in the new faith. What f"™®® 's only a remnant of what was, originally, a cathedral look inside for the aaed wall paintings and the tomb of Celsius, of thermometer fame. Set in the
outside, there's an eleventhcentury rune stone. mv