And there's opportimity, too, if you're discreet, to camp To ghosts. (Monfllrt Uppsala, take bus #14 (hourly MonSat), #24 (MonSat), #25 or #54 (daily) from Dragarbrunnsgatan. 396SlV£0fV. STOCKHOLM AND AROUND travel details Trains From Stockholm to SodertaljeLaggesta (36 daily; 30min1hr); Helsingborg (4 daily; 7hr, 3 continuing to Copenhagen in 8hr 30min); Malmo (510 daily; 7hr); Gothenburg (weekdays virtually hourly, weekends less frequent; 44hr 45min); UppsalaGavie (1116 daily; 45min 40min); Boden (3 daily; 14hrl; Ostersund (5 daily; 6hr 30min). From Uppsala to LeksandMora (3 daily; 2hr 50min3hr 40min); Stockholm (at least hourly; 45min). Buses From Stockholm to Nynashamn (for ferry to Gotland); a connecting bus leaves 90min before ferry's departure, from Vattugatan close to Central Station (30kr single); UppsaiaBorlange (Fri 2, Sat 1, Sun 2; lhr3hr 30min); Strangnas Kristinehamn (34 at the weekend; lhr4hr); Gavie (Fri 3, Sat 1, Sun 2; 2hr 30min); Sveg Klovsjo (for Inlandsbanan; Fri, Sat & Sun 1 кь 8hr 30min); Gothenburg (Fri & Sun i 'oi, ; HelsingborgMalmo (Fri & Sun 1; 9hr10hr|'um « (Fri & Sun 1; lOhr); LeksandRattvik (Fri 2,'sat i Sun 2; 4hr 30min5hr|; Ostersund (Sun 1; 9hr) ' International Trains From Stockholm to Trondheim (2 daily 14hr); Oslo (13 daily; 6hr 30min); NanIk (2 т daily; 21 hr). International Ferries From Stockholm to Helsinki (1 Viking Lmesni 1 Silja Line daily; 15hr); Turku (2 Viking and 2 Silja daily; 1 daily on each line via the Aland Islands 1113hr); Eckero (23 daily; 3hr; a bus leaves from Tekniska Hogskolan Tbana 2hr before ferry's departure for Grisslehamn). From Nynashamn to Gdansk (Poland: one weekly; 19hr); Gotland (see p.476). ГНАРТЕЯ TEN THEUeURGANDAROUn O f all the cities in the south of Sweden, grandest is the western port of Gothenburg, as likely a first sight of the country as Stockholm, due to its popular train and ferry connections with Denmark, Norway and England. It's Sweden's second largest city, the mere fact of which might persuade many to move on quickly to the alluring surrounding countryside. But beyond the gargantuan shipyards, Gothenburg echoes its locality a surprisingly green and cultured place, with a plethora of good bars and restaurants, and worth more time than the traditional postferry exodus allows. Hie counties to the north and east of the city are prime targets for domestic tourists a mixed bag of coastal resorts, backed by an extensive hinterland of lake and forest regions. The rocky Bohuslan coastline north of Gothenburg, in particular, is packed with holidaying possibilities right the way to Stromstad and the Norwegian border, and is consequently chockfull of clean campsites, beaches and cycle tracks. Northeast of Gothenburg, Sweden's two largest splashes of water, lakes Vanem and Vattem, dip into the Vastergotland region. The lakes are connected to each other (and to east and west coasts) by the crosscountry Gota Caiud, and if you're inspired by the possibilities of water transport you could always make the complete fourday trip by boat from Gothenburg to Stockholm.