excellent, with everything from prehistoric finds to African art, and are wo separate visit for themselves. OLD GOTHENBURG AND A V E N Y NIi07 u've taken the paddan boat tour, youll have already seen the best views of h "harbour from the water. However, an outdoor maritime museum, the MLitima Centrum (all year except Jan t & Sun llam5pm; JuneAug daily _5рщ; 35kr, children 20kr, families lOOkr, Gothenburg Card admits two for h orice of one) gives you a different view, and allows you to clamber aboard ous types of vessels moored along the quayside: a warship, cargo boats, tilers, a ferry and even a floating restaurant. Tbere's an indoor museum, too, d vou can either pay just to see one or two of the ships or get the 35kr ticket, ch gives access to everything, including the museum. Even when the place is closed it's worthwhile going down to the quays to have a look around. The ship yards beyond the harbour look like a rusting Meccano set, put into shaф rspective by the IBM building and the other new technology industry offices "TOs part of the harbour is linked by overhead walkway to Nordstan shopping centre, so that you can avoid the busy road interchange below. Churches and trade In its seventeenth and eighteenthcentury heyday Gothenburg was first and foremost a trading and export centre, and its churches were always decidedly low key. The Domlkan (MonFri 9.3011.30am, Tburs also 5.30брт, Sat 8am 3pm, Sun 10am3pm), over the canal on Kyrkogatan, is a good, though admittedly later, example: simple wooden portal, mock marble pillars and a gilt altar, that today seem weary and faded. It's also no surprise to find that what seems to be the area's most notable church, the Feskekorkan ("Fish Church"), on the canal at Rosenlundsgatan, is in fact a fish market, built in 1873. It's open Tuesday to Friday from 9am to 5pm, Saturday 9am to 1pm, and there's an excellent fish restaurant inside too; take tram #1, #3 or #4 to Jarntorget. For serious fish dealing, if s instructive to go down to the fish harbour, Fiskhanmen, a couple of kilometres west of the centre, where daily auctions take place. YouH need to be keen the auctions start at 7am, Tuesday to Friday (and occasionally Saturday). Take tram #3 or #4 to Stigbergstorget. For more evidence of the decorative care lavished on all things commercial Md secular, pop into the Antikhallaraa (MonFri 10am6pm, Sat 10am2pm; free) at the top of Vastra Hamngatan. A permanent antique market on two lofty ifi' collectors' items (from stamps to suits of armour) are ranged between ible walls and pillars and kept dry under the loveUest of blackleaded glass enyn and around &OSS the canal fiom Kungsportsplatsen and, with the Stora Teatem straight a, Kungsportsavenyn runs all the way up to Gotaplatsen. Ibis vdde strip, wn simply as Avenyn or "the Avenue", is Gothenburg's showiest thorough buildto" 'consisting of a Une of private houses fronted by gardens.