A couple of and naS theatre, still survive from those days high ariy адж balconied frontages. The side streets, too, particu ings гепй "astern side, remain handsome and neat: a grid pattern of tall build "Hniscent of central Glasgow's neat apartment blocks. These days Avenyn iOSIS W E D E N: GOTHENBURG AND AROUND itself is no longer residential, but rather a length of pavement restaurants and brasseries. Of an evening everyone takes to the streets to walk and watch a custom that almost makes you forget you're this far north. During the day Avenyn's main business is shopping, although a couple of good museums lurk in the side streets. From the canal to the arts and crafts museum Avenyn crosses a green belt of land fronting the canal: Kungsparken on the right, and on the left, the Tradsgardsforening (daily MayAug 7am9pm. lOkr SeptApril 7am6pm, free). The latter is the better, a botanical garden with a sculpture park and a beautifully restored nineteenthcentury Palm House (daily JuneAug 10am6pm; SeptMay 10am4pm; lOkr) containing distinctly un Scandinavian flora. Nearby, the Butterfly House is the latest attraction (April, May & Sept TuesFri 10am4pm, Sat & Sun llam4pm; JuneAug MonFri 10am5pm, Sat & Sun llam5pm; OctMarch TuesFri 10am3pm, Sat & Sun llam3pm; 25kr, Gothenburg Card not valid), with around twenty species some as big as your hand-divided between South American and Southeast Asian hothouses. Throughout the summer, theatre and music groups perform regularly in the park at lunchtime. A bit further up Avenyn, the Rohsska Museum of Arts and Crafts, at Vasagatan 3739 (MayAug MonFri llam4pm. Sat & Sun 10am5pm; Sept April TuesFri llam4pm, Tues until 9pm, Sat & Sun 10am5pm; 25kr, architectural students free), celebrates (among other things) Swedish design through the ages. Some beautiful antique furniture competes for the honours alongside modem cutlery, glass and silverware, and there's a large collection of contemporary photographs, many of them very good. Gotaplatsen If you're not shopping or eating, there's nothing more on Avenyn until you reach Gotaplatsen at the top, the modern cultural centre of Gothenburg. Cari Milles' muscled Poseidon fronts the traffic, and ranged around the square are the Concert Hall, City Theatre and the respected Art Museum (MonFri llara 4pm, Wed until 9pm, Sat & Sun 10am5pm; SeptApril closed Mon; 25kr). Its massive facade is not a jot misleading: inside are enormous collections that should be catholic enough for most tastes. Chiefly, though, it's the Impressionists who hold sway Cezanne, Pissarro and Renoir all fighting for wall space. Of the Swedish artists present, the works of Carl Kylberg are best, while downstairs modem and pop art take over, with Warhol's obligatory Marilyn Monroe amongst a host of other works. The modem Scandinavians get more than a look in. too a refreshing change. „.