Around the front, to the side of the generators, an eel ladder takes eels out of the water in early spring as Шеу migrate from the sea at Gothenburg, moving inland to the lake: they can't make it past the falls or the power station, so they're collected here and taken by lo to Vanern, the process reversed in September and October when they return. Fier on down at the upper lock, the engaging Kanahnuseum (mid d fr ™dAug daily noon4pm; rest of the year Sat & Sun noon5pm; 5kr, chil en free) puts the whole thing into perspective with model ships, a history of the It fishing gear. РаИе combine all this watery activity with a visit in July when the aterSl takes place, a festival of dancing and music based around the see the П1 • summer is the only time when the sluices are opened and you can you mic tk "i crashing splendour, so it's well worth catching though if or four d к P® June anH ®l4ices are opened on a couple of weekends during May and • on Wednesday and Sunday in July aiid August (at 2.15pm). Practicalities If you want to stay in Trollhattan, as well you might, there's an excellent youth hostel, Stromsberg (e0520129 60; 90kr), overlooking the river on the opposite side from the centre; it's the white building on the hill, fifteen minutes' walk from the train station and is open all year except Christmas. Otherwise, the tourist office in the town centre can book you a private room all year round, some with kitchen. There's also a campsite QuneAug; w052030 613) close to the centre by the river, which rents out bikes and has a heated swimming pool. You cari even play tennis and golf there. From June to August, boats run north up the canal to Vanersborg, the three to fourhour round trip costing around 80kr; you may be able to negotiate a oneway fare if you're not planning to return. .lilf i"! Vanersborg Around 10km north of Trollhattan, VANERSBORG isn't immediately different, a likeable little resort town on the southwestern tip of Lake Vanem, which means plenty of swimming and boating in the vicinity. TTiere are buses from Trollhattan (#665; midJune to midAug) but you'll really need your own transport to see the local sights, namely the twin hills of Hunnebei and Hallebei to the east of town, which support a wide range of wildlife including a 200strong elk population. The hills are ancient places 500 million years old and early human remains have been uncovered here, as well as traces of an old Viking fort. It's a grand drive up to the curious flattopped, thickly wooded hills, and once there you'll need to crawl along the narrow roads in order to have a chance of seeing anything. The elks are a browngrey colour, easily confused with the thick forest all around, despite being anything up to two metres high and weighing up to 600 kilos. In July (every Tues & Fri at 8pm), the Vanersborg tourist office runs an Elk Safari (30kr, under15s 15kr), a twohour elkspotting jaunt through the hills in a doubledecker bus.