Between here and TORVED, to the south, runs 20km of abandoned railway track, now used for self propelled trips on Westemstyle pumpaction buggies, which cost around 200kr a day and carry one or two people. The route lies alongside the eminently swimma ble GullspSng river, and though you have to return the buggy to wherever you rented it, you can do so the next day if you want to camp out overnight. Gullspang is the more convenient end to rent a buggy since there's a youth hostel there ("055120 786; 90kr), open all year book ahead outside the summer season. Karlsborg and around Despite the great plans devised for the fortress at KARLSBORG, around 70km southeast of Mariestad on the western shore of Lake Vattem, it has survived the y®® as one of Sweden's greatest follies. In 1818, with the Russian fleet stationed on the Aland Islands and within easy striking distance of Stockholm, Baltzar Von fatten persuaded parliament to construct an inland fortress at Karlsborg, capa Wtb an entire town and protecting the royal family and the treasury, alrp H P™''® between lakes Vattem and Bottensjon, the Gota Canal eady under construction was to provide access, but while Von Flatten had neve?" finished by 1832, the fortress was so ambitious a project that it was doned strategically obsolete long before work was finally aban whose u ' parts are still in use today by the army and air force, ТьЛн overflights lend authenticity to your visit, rampa fortress are protected by Lake Vattem, and relatively minor arthwolT't inajority of the effort going into the massive lines of rKs along the southern landward edge. Once over them, the enemy For an account of the towns on the eastern side of Lake Vfittem, from Jonkoping to Motala, see "The Southeast" chapter. would have had to negotiate a rifle enfilade in the dry moat before facing the southern rampart, which was heavily fortified with 263 cannons. You can wander fieely inside the fortress, as large as a town, but make sure you catch the guided tour an imaginative attempt to help you experience the attacks the place was planned to repel. ТЪе tour leaves from the Gothic Gate, on the approach from town, and takes around ninety minutes (13 daily midJune to midAug; early May to midJune & mid to end Aug Sat & Sun only; 40kr). The town that has grown up around the fortress is completely dominated by it but is nevertheless a spacious, pleasant place to wander around. There is nothing else to see except the odd boat entering the canal. Practicalities There's no train service to Karlsborg and you'll have to come by bus fiom either lidkoping (#200 to Skovde then #1 or #400) or Mariestad (#420). The tourist office, right by the Gota Canal QuneAug daily 9am7pm; SeptMay MonFri 9am5pm; »050512 120), can book private rooms for around 150kr per person. Both the youth hostel, 1km to the south (open all year; «050511 60090kr). and the campsite (MaySept; «050511 916), 500m to the north of the tourist office, are conveniently located on the banks of Lake Bottensjon.